Designing for curvy women is an art and a science, one that requires understanding, patience, and a deep appreciation for diverse body shapes. As a creative woman passionate about handmade fashion, I’ve spent years exploring what it truly means to create clothing that fits and flatters curvy bodies. This journey is about more than just sewing—it’s about embracing confidence, representation, and creativity in every stitch. In this article, I’ll share insights from my experience and those of my fellow designers, focusing on what makes a good pattern, why representation matters now more than ever, and how to embrace your body and style through clothing that fits just right.
Many designers start by scratching their own itch. When I began sewing years ago, I used standard patterns that didn’t cater to women with curves. Commercial patterns are often designed with a narrow body type in mind—usually based on a size two or four model standing around five foot six. This “one size fits all” mentality simply doesn’t work for curvy women, whose bodies have unique proportions that require thoughtful adjustments.
One of the biggest challenges in designing for curvy women is accommodating the hips and buttocks while maintaining a proportionate waist. Most ready-to-wear and fast fashion brands overlook this, focusing instead on bust sizes or ignoring the diversity in lower body shapes altogether. That’s why I founded Cover Me Chic, a pattern company dedicated to curvy women, especially those who need more room for hips and buttocks without sacrificing fit around the waist.
A key insight when designing for curvy women is remembering that for many of us, the waist is proportionally smaller than the hips and buttocks. This means that patterns must be drafted with this difference in mind to avoid ill-fitting garments that gape or pull uncomfortably. For example, when sewing pants or dresses, it’s common to add extra rise in the back or increase the hip width by an inch or two to ensure a comfortable, flattering fit.
Taking accurate measurements is the first step. Many women are surprised when they realize their pattern size is larger than their usual clothing size. This is because commercial sizing is inconsistent and often based on unrealistic body standards. When teaching sewing classes, I emphasize that it’s not about the number on the pattern envelope but about fitting the largest part of your body—whether that’s your bust, waist, or hips.
When selecting patterns, the golden rule is to choose the size that fits your largest measurement. For example, if your hips are larger than your waist or bust, pick a pattern size based on your hip measurement. The rest of the garment can be tailored or taken in to fit the smaller areas. This approach ensures comfort and flattering proportions.
For instance, in my own sewing, I often hack patterns extensively to achieve the perfect trouser fit. Once you create a pants pattern that fits your unique shape, it becomes your favorite go-to, saving time and frustration in the long run.
Representation in fashion and pattern design is crucial. When patterns and ready-to-wear clothes are designed solely for a narrow body type, it sends a message that curvy bodies are an afterthought. This lack of representation affects confidence and makes shopping or sewing frustrating for many women.
Our bodies are not cookie-cutter shapes. Even within the plus-size community, there are countless variations in shape and proportion. Designing for curvy women means recognizing these differences and creating patterns that honor them instead of forcing everyone into a limited mold.
Here are some practical strategies that can help curvy women find or create garments that fit and flatter:
For example, I often have to shorten bodices and lengthen skirts to accommodate my height and curves. These small tweaks make a huge difference in how a garment looks and feels.
Designing for curvy women is not just technical—it’s deeply emotional. Many of us have experienced frustration and disappointment when clothes don’t fit or flatter our bodies. This can lead to negative feelings about our bodies and even avoid shopping altogether.
“There’s nothing wrong with you. That’s number one. When they mass produce clothes, they try to fit as many people as possible, but in doing that, they really don’t fit anyone.”
It’s important to remember that the problem lies in the clothes, not in your body. Finding clothing that fits well can transform how you feel about yourself. When you wear clothes tailored to your shape, you radiate confidence and comfort.
One of my personal tips is to try on new clothes at home. This way, you can take your time to assess fit and feel without pressure. If it doesn’t work, you have the comfort of your own space to process your feelings before deciding what to do next.
Wearing clothing that fits well and flatters your curves can boost your confidence tremendously. It’s not about spending a fortune; a well-fitting garment priced modestly will always look better than an expensive piece that doesn’t fit. The right fit enhances your posture, your presence, and ultimately how you carry yourself.
My advice is to embrace your body as it is—a unique gift. Celebrate your curves and find styles that highlight your favorite features. Whether you sew your own clothes or shop carefully, the goal is to feel like the best version of yourself in every outfit.
Designing for curvy women is a rewarding journey that combines technical skill with self-love and creativity. Whether you’re sewing your own clothes or navigating the world of ready-to-wear, understanding your body’s unique proportions and embracing them is key to confidence and style.
Remember:
By designing and dressing intentionally for curvy women, we can change the narrative around fashion, making it inclusive, empowering, and beautiful for all shapes and sizes.
Keep dreaming big, sewing thoughtfully, and growing slowly—your perfect fit is out there, waiting for you to claim it.
[00:00:00 – 00:00:18] Zahiyya
Welcome to the Designers Plants and Coffee podcast, where we’re sewing, sipping, and staying rooted. We’re three creative women building handmade businesses and sharing real conversations about design, growth, and what it really takes to make things that matter. So grab your coffee, pull up a project, and let’s grow together.
[00:00:18 – 00:00:53] Naima
Today, we are talking about curve, confidence, and creativity. We want to know what makes a good pattern, why representation matters, which these days is more important than ever, and how to embrace your body and your style. So we have our resident curvy girl expert, Zahiyya of Cover Me Chic, here. Tell us a little bit about your approach to making this line for the curvy girl. Catering to a curvy woman. Tell us a little bit about your approach to that.
[00:00:53 – 00:02:01] Zahiyya
A lot of designers kind of scratch their own itch. When I started sewing eons ago, I just sewed the patterns the way they came and, you know, just, like, off the rack. They don’t make it necessarily for women with curves. So when I started learning about, you know, fit and curves and stuff like that, I was like, that’s when I started adjusting patterns. And, you know, I was in the industry for a long time, and they don’t cater to. To us, and that’s why I sew all my clothes. And I basically started the Cover Me chic because, you know, there wasn’t really a pattern company that really, you know, catered to just hips and butts.
You know, that’s what I really focus on because there’s a lot of, you know, different ones for, like, different cup sizes and stuff like that, but not necessarily for hips and butts. So when you’re sewing pants, when you’re sewing dresses, you always have to make adjustments. So you always have to, you know, make the. The rise in the back bigger, you know, add some, you know, two inches or an inch or so to the back for dresses. So basically, I draft the patterns so that it fits us the way it’s supposed to.
[00:02:01 – 00:03:29] Naima
Don’t forget, for most of us, our waist are proportionately smaller than our booties and hips. So just to have that kind of exclusivity where something is made just for purpose, you know, it’s so funny because as I’m teaching, the first thing we do is take measurements. Everybody is always darn near fainting as they take their measurements, because on paper, they might be like an 8 or a 12, but when it comes to pattern sizing, that 12 may go up to a 16. And they don’t understand that. I have to explain to them that fast. Fashion is made for. They take A, a 56 size 2, 4 model and they used her as the standard for everybody.
That’s what you have to teach them when you’re trying to get them to understand that nobody has a perfect body. We all have bits and pieces that we don’t like. I mean even the slimmest person has bits and pieces they don’t like. I guess for me with Fearless threads, I don’t do a lot of clothing. The few pieces of clothing that I make are like these one size pieces. I’ll do a kimono or something like that. But for myself, I am the queen of, I mean I will hack a pattern to death to make it fit, you know, and once you get that pattern for that perfect trouser, you just keep it because you’ve worked so hard to get it to where you want it to be.
[00:03:29 – 00:06:07] LaTisha
So it’s two different things. For let’s say I’ll start with the, the curvy person who’s just trying to find something to, to fit. So I had someone, a young lady and she wanted to get a suit. So I told her, I was like, well let me take your measurements. So you know, like any good sewist, I keep a tape measure in my bag. Only people that don’t understand that. So I took her measurements and I said okay, so when you’re getting a suit especially she wants to get a skirt suit and a pantsuit.
I said I want you to think about, you can do separates or if you have your measurements and she is one who has whose time top I’m bottom heavy. I said so we’re gonna get your measurements. You will find out the biggest part of yourself and you’re gonna buy your garment based on the biggest part of yourself. Everything else can be taken in. She got a skirt suit and it fit her bottom half, but the jacket was loose. I was like, this is like no worries that can be taken in. When you are really looking for something to fit, find out what the biggest part of you fit for that size.
Everything else can be taken in and tailored in. Especially considering some suits now are like 30, 40. Well, I can tell you right now, if I make you a suit, it’s not gonna be that price because fabric, exactly. Fabric alone for one yard costs more than that. So it’s better to just go to the store, find a good tailor or alteration person who can actually make that garment to fit your body. So that was one of the things that I told her and I been telling everybody. But when you are also Since I am a tech person and also a fit expert, when I’m actually looking at designs and I get a handoff, I’m thinking about our measurements. So our.
Our standard fit model for Missy would be a medium. Well, two sizes can fit in the medium, but also. And plus, there’s different things. So when you’re looking at it, you’re looking at it as, I wanted to fit this, this person, but I’m also thinking of the other bodies that need to go into it. I want to make sure it’s not too big, not too tight. And when you’re dealing with curvy, especially when we get to the plus sizes, we can’t just say, oh, we’re going to take it from. From a medium.
We’re going to grade it all the way up to a 4X. No, two different bodies. Baby, that does not work. Yeah. And this is why you’ll see some things that don’t fit. So I want you to remember this. It’s not about the size.
It’s not about the 810. It’s about what is your measurement for. For your chest, for your waist, for your hips. If that’s the largest part of you, that is the part that you need to dress for, go. You need to shop. Everything else can be taken in by a good tail.
[00:06:07 – 00:06:56] Zahiyya
And that’s the same thing with patterns. Because basically when, like, when you’re fitting for, like, a pattern, you always go for the largest part. You can always tailor in, you know, the waist or, you know, whatever that is. But usually when I’m. When I buy patterns or when I’m making patterns, if it’s the top, I do it for the neck and the shoulder, you know, and then I add for the bus if I have to. And then I do the widest part of my hip, and then I take that in because you want it to fit well on your shoulders, and then you want it to fit well on your. Your hips.
So there’s two different types of ways that you can go about it. But, you know, I do tutorials, so you can check me out.
Cover me chic. Basically, when you. When you’re looking for patterns for curvy women, you really have to take in consideration, you know, your largest part, like, like Tish said, and then everything else can be adjusted.
[00:06:56 – 00:08:07] Naima
In my class, we were. We were talking about this because one of my students didn’t understand why the crotch area of the back of her pants was so much bigger than the front. And I said, well, you don’t have to accommodate as much in the front as you do in the back. And then I went on to explain to them how after we took our measurements and they were reading the back of the envelope to try to find their size, and one of them posed a very good question, which I wait for the question, but I always teach anyway. And she said, well, if my. My waist is this and my bust is this, which one do I go with? And I said, well, which one is bigger?
And she said, well, I think she said the bus was bigger. I said, you always go with the bigger part because think about it.
You’re pulling something over your head. It’s gonna get stuck right here if you haven’t accommodated where your bus is gonna go. So, you know, it comes naturally for us because it’s what we do. But seeing it through new sewist eyes is really, really fun to see. And when you can always tell when they get it and when that light bulb moment comes on. So.
[00:08:07 – 00:08:18] Zahiyya
Yeah, so what, what, what? Common. Like when you were making commercial patterns even before, you know, back in the day, what was the common adjustment that you had to make so that it fits your body well?
[00:08:18 – 00:09:26] LaTisha
Well, for me, I am not a part of the bottom heavy crew. Sorry. I’m just not. I’m the other way around. So it’s trying to enlarge the area for my. My boobs, my chest, but also not make it where it’s. It’s droopy, the armholes.
So it’s really learning, learning about, hey, darts help a lot when you. When you’re working and you’re trying to fit larger chest and understanding shoulders and everything of that nature. But when I was teaching for at one of the universities, one of the models had a larger behind.
I’m gonna say. And yet the young woman. Yes. She didn’t understand how to correct it. So I said, well, she’s gonna need more depth. I was like, because it’s going this way.
She’s like, oh. I said, so your pattern needs to go this way. So when she finally figured it out and I showed her how to manipulate and how to slash and spread it, she tried. She bumped, cut the pants back out, and they fit her perfect. And a girl, the model was so happy, she was like, oh, my gosh, I’ve never had a pair of pants to fit my behind.
[00:09:26 – 00:10:00] Zahiyya
Yes. And that.
That has been just like, even off the rack. I can’t buy certain. Most of the. Most of the pants that I go and try to find and try on, none of. If it fits my hips, it’s like gapping in the back, you know, otherwise it doesn’t go over. So it’s just like I really wear. I make most of my clothes because of that.
Because, you know, they’ve gotten better with jeans because they have stretch in it. So you can find some jeans that, that work, but like dress pants or just any type of cargo pant or anything. No, you have to, you have to really tailor it for your, for your body.
[00:10:00 – 00:10:39] LaTisha
Can I say there’s a commercial with. Commercial with Beyonce. She has on denim. Have you all seen that commercial? She has a denim jacket. I’m sorry, she has a denim jacket? Yeah, she has a denim jacket and a denim jeans on.
And me, I was like, oh, they had, I know they had to tailor this to make sure it fits. So I’m looking. Being a sole person in tech design, I’m literally rewinding, fast forwarding because I’m trying to focus on what did they do? Did they make the right corrections to get this to fit her and. Right. Levi’s does not fit.
Levi’ll in Cali. No, no, no, they don’t fit. They. And you know what?
[00:10:39 – 00:11:01] Zahiyya
Wait, I take that back. I take that back.
They do have a curvy. They used to sell it. They used to. And they discontinued it because I do have Levi’s and they have a curve. They had a curvy.
I don’ it was Kirby Signature. I don’t know what it was called, but I did get a couple. I still have them because they fit. So I mean, but they discontinued. So I can’t find them anymore. They did have it. They did have it.
[00:11:01 – 00:11:35] Naima
No, but, but for me, see, my, my problem is double edge, right? Because I do have a black girl bottom, but I’m also short, right?
So I have. Not only do I have to tailor for length because everything is made for somebody five, eight and above, and I’m not that. I also have to accommodate for him. So it’s. I mean, it’s tedious. But like I said, once you find. Once you have created your perfect pants pattern, make a muslin of it.
Make two muslins of it, because you’re going to wear it out. That’s going to become your favorite pants.
[00:11:35 – 00:12:14] Zahiyya
So, you know, I mean, just, just piggybacking off what you just said, when they do like commercial patterns, they make it for like five, eight. I’m not, I’m not five, eight either. So when you do. So when you do, like, even when you’re trying to do a dress, I, I had to adjust the, the bodice as well. So I had to raise the bodice because first of all, it has to go over your butt. So you have to make the bodice shorter because it’s 4, 5, 8 and I’m 5 4. So that’s the difference of 4 inches.
And then you had to make the, the skirt longer. So it’s a lot of different, like, tricks that you can do to make the stuff fit or you can just buy cover machine patterns because they fit you anyway.
[00:12:16 – 00:13:35] Naima
And I have, I have one of my clients I have the opposite, opposite problem with, because she’s long, you know, so everything that I’m teaching her and showing her how to do, we have to add length to. And so it just goes back to our original statement. None of us has the perfect body for anything that is commercially made. And by commercially made, I mean ready to wear, fast fashion and commercial sewing patterns. None of us has the body for the measurements that they use for those things, specifically if they are being made and measured in other countries, because their body shapes are very, very different than American body shapes. And I don’t mean just black body shapes, even though that’s who our target is right now. I mean, everybody shape.
You know, I was in the south, and trust me, everybody in the south has a big butt of any color. You know what I’m saying? So, you know, they all have to, we just have to adapt. But I guess in making your own clothes, it’s easier to, who know how to make those adjustments. It’s so funny to hear my students talking about how they want to do tailoring. I’m like, okay, talk to me in two years about wanting to do tailoring.
[00:13:36 – 00:13:37] Zahiyya
It is.
[00:13:37 – 00:13:45] LaTisha
Alterations is a very lucrative business. If you put in the time and you are your patient, you have to.
[00:13:45 – 00:14:25] Naima
Have the patience for it. I guess our final thought, like, we are all emotionally connected to our bodies. We all want to look good. We all have to grapple with the fact that we have to dress the body that we’re in. So I guess, how do you all recommend dealing with that body image and that emotion that comes from trying something on? And it’s like, oh, my God, it doesn’t fit. I’m never trying on clothes again.
Because we’ve all been there for me. I don’t try on clothes. I come home, I try them on at home. That way, if I need to cry, I can cry in the comfort of my own home and then take it back.
[00:14:26 – 00:15:48] Zahiyya
You know what? I, I, I’m for someone who does a lot of like, it’s been in the fashion industry. I don’t like shop. I just don’t like shopping because it’s just. It’s. It’s because it’s not a good experience because the stuff that I like, I can’t fit, you know, so it’s not necessarily that I don’t like to see, you know, stuff. I just know that it’s not going to fit me the way it needs to fit me.
So I don’t. I mean, I would. I used to, like when you were younger, you like, oh, something’s wrong, you know, but there’s nothing wrong with you. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with you. When they mass produce clothes, they. They try to fit as many as people as possible, but in doing that, they really don’t fit anyone, you know, because they’re not really specific into the body type that they’re really going after. So there’s nothing wrong with you.
That’s number one. Number two is just like, find the clothes that fit you and that flatter your body. Whatever body that you have, whether you know, whether you like it or not, there’s clothes that will work for your body that will make you look really, really good. And I know when you look, you look good, you feel good, you act different, you confident, you know, you do your thing, and it doesn’t even matter how much it costs. If it fits you well, it will look like a million bucks. Like, if you spend like $10,000 on something that doesn’t fit, it doesn’t matter. But if you spend like $50 on something and it fits you, like to the T, you’ll look like a million bucks.
So it’s all about how things.
[00:15:48 – 00:15:50] Naima
And you will feel like a million bucks.
[00:15:50 – 00:16:05] Zahiyya
Exactly. Exactly. So there is an emotion to it. And I think the better clothes fit you, the more confident you feel and the better you know, the better you are.
You know, just to knock it out. Just knock it out.
So, any final thoughts?
[00:16:05 – 00:16:21] LaTisha
I would say my final thought would be embrace the body that you have, because, hey, it’s the one that God has gifted you. So embrace it, love it. And don’t worry about the numbers in the tags of what size it is. As long as it looks good, that’s. That’s great.
[00:16:21 – 00:16:24] Zahiyya
So I’ll take it out. I’m Zahiyya from Cover Me Chic along.
[00:16:24 – 00:16:27] LaTisha
With LaTisha of Keeping you in Stitches.
[00:16:27 – 00:16:29] Naima
And Naima from Fearless Threads.
[00:16:29 – 00:16:37] Zahiyya
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