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Picking the correct pattern size is really important if you want your handmade clothing to fit perfectly. The first thing you need to do is to take exact measurements. This guide will help you to the correct decision, by emphasizing important measurements and ease guidance.
Take Your Measurements
In order to accomplish this task, the first thing that you need to do is get your measurements the right way. Having at hand a measuring tape that can be bent and a mirror that can show your full length can help you to see your entire body while measuring. Or, you could also ask a friend for help. Your main focus should be on the crucial measurements which are bust, waist, and hips.
In order to measure your bust accurately, you need to take the tape around the part of your chest that is the fullest as well as parallel to the ground. You should keep a little space free that is just enough to allow a finger to slide underneath the tape.
Then, mark the narrowest section of your waist and measure it, once again placing the tape parallel to the floor. Then you measure the widest part of your hips.
Don’t forget to jot down these measurements in your measurement toolkit, which you can download at free to keep track of your body measurements.
Understand Ease
Understanding ease is crucial for achieving the right fit. There are two types:
- Wearing Ease: This is the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. It allows for comfortable movement.
- Design Ease: This is added by designers to create a specific style or silhouette, which can vary significantly between garments.
For clothes that are meant to be tailored, you can anticipate an ease of approximately 2 to 3 inches, whereas those that are less fitted might have an ease of 4 inches or more. Being aware of the amount of ease a pattern has will enable you to make the best decision on the size you should cut.
Check the Size Chart
Pattern sizing differs significantly from ready-to-wear clothing. Don’t assume you’ll use the same size as your store-bought clothes. Each pattern company has its own sizing standards, so always consult the specific pattern’s size chart.
Look for:
- Body measurements for each size
- Size ranges available
- Whether the pattern is for misses, plus sizes, or petites
- Any specific fitting notes from the designer
Choosing the Right Size
Select your pattern size based on your key measurements: bust, waist, and hips. For fitted bodices, the bust measurement is crucial. For skirts and pants, focus on waist and hip measurements.
If your measurements span different sizes, don’t worry – this is completely normal. Start with the size that matches your largest upper-body measurement for tops and dresses, or largest lower-body measurement for skirts and pants.
As you cut the pattern, size blending is a simple process by which you draw your cutting line first to make the transition between one size and the other size gradually.
Finished Garment Measurements
Look for the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces or envelope before you begin cutting your pattern. This is a good guide for you to know the amount of ease that is in the pattern and how it will look.
These numbers tell you the actual size of the completed garment, including ease allowances. Compare these to:
- Your body measurements
- Similar garments you own and like the fit of
- The intended fit of the design
Grading Between Sizes
In case you discover that there is a necessity to reduce the size, here are the proper steps to do it.
- Identify the sizes you need to blend between based on your bust, waist, and hip measurements.
- Using a curved ruler, draw a smooth line between the sizes on your pattern pieces. This will ensure a gradual transition without any sharp angles.
- Cut along your newly drawn line to create a custom size pattern that fits your unique shape.
Initially, cutting the correct pattern size may seem like an insurmountable task, but by following the outlined steps you will be making garments that will fit and flatter your body. Remember to get your measurements, grasp the concept of ease and compare to the size chart and finished garment measurements. A bit of practice and you will build up the confidence to choose the right pattern size every time!
If you haven’t already, download the measurement toolkit to help you keep track of your sizes. Happy sewing!
