Grading Between Sizes: Your Guide to the Perfect Fit

At Cover Me Chic, we know that bodies are beautifully unique—and that’s exactly why most sewists find themselves grading between sizes when using sewing patterns. If your measurements fall across more than one size on our chart, don’t worry! Grading between sizes is a normal—and empowering—part of getting a garment to fit you just right.

What is Grading Between Sizes?

Grading between sizes means blending from one size to another on a sewing pattern to match your measurements. For example, you might use a size 20 at the bust, a 22 at the waist, and a 24 at the hip. By connecting these points on your pattern, you can create a custom fit that works for your body.

How to Know What Sizes to Use

1. Start fresh – Always retake your measurements before starting a new project.
2. Wear what you’ll wear – Put on the bra or base layers you plan to wear with your final garment.
3. Measure sitting and standing – This helps ensure you have enough ease, especially at the waist and hips.
4. Use the Cover Me Chic size chart – Match your bust, waist, and hip to the closest sizes.

Tip: Check out the Finished Garment Measurements for each pattern—they’re super helpful when deciding whether you need to grade.

How to Grade Between Sizes

Grading between sizes is easier than it sounds. Just:

• On your pattern pieces, draw a smooth line connecting the sizes you need at each key point (bust, waist, hip).
• Make sure to grade all the relevant pieces—like front, back, and any facings or linings.
• Double-check that your seams still match up after grading.

Need a visual? Check out our how to chose the right size pattern tutorial for a walkthrough.

How Many Sizes Can I Grade Between?

You can typically grade up to 3 sizes apart with great results. More than that is possible, but be careful to keep your curves smooth and natural. Always test your changes with a muslin or toile to make sure they land in the right place.

True story: One of our testers once graded too far too quickly and ended up with too much ease at the side—not the hips where she needed it!

Do I Need to Make a Muslin?

Yes, especially when you’re grading or adjusting a pattern for the first time. A muslin helps you see how your changes affect the fit—before cutting into your good fabric.

What If My Measurements Fall Between Chart Sizes?

• In-between sizes? Round up for fitted garments, and round down for looser styles with lots of ease.
• Outside the chart? You may need to grade up or down beyond our existing size range.

Does It Matter if I’m Sewing a Knit or Woven?

The basics of how to grade between sizes are the same, but:

• Knit fabrics are more forgiving and may not require as much grading.
• Woven fabrics need more precision. Check out our how to buy fabric online tutorial.

What If My Shoulder, Bust, or Sleeve Are All Different Sizes?

• Narrow or broad shoulders? If you’re more than one size different between the shoulder and bust, consider a narrow shoulder or broad shoulder adjustment instead of grading.
• Different sleeve size? You can do a full or small bicep adjustment to get the sleeve to match your bodice.

Can I Skip Grading?

Sometimes! Before you grade, check:

• What’s the ease like? A loose-fitting wrap dress may not require grading even if your waist is off by a size.
• What’s the design intent? If it’s meant to be flowy or oversized, you might already have the fit you need.

But to preserve the original look and fit of the design, grading between sizes is often the best path forward.

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Still unsure? We’re here to help. Contact us here with your measurements and the pattern you’re working on—we’d be happy to walk you through the best approach.